September 9, 2020

salt mine turned sanctuary.

Looking down into the main sanctuary of the Salt Cathedral.
Just north of Bogota is the town of Zipaquira. It is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country for locals because it is home to a large underground cathedral. It is one of those places that we hear about constantly from Colombians encouraging us to see what they call the “8th wonder of the world”. So, of course, we had to go see it.

Centre square of Zipaquira. Little hills covered in brick was interesting.
The cathedral is located in an active salt mine, although in a part of the mine that is no longer being used. When they extract the salt from the mountain, they dig out huge rooms and leave them empty. In some of these rooms, artists have carved out chambers that contain the Stations of the Cross, several naves and a sanctuary filled with statues, crosses, and confessionals all made out of the surrounding salt rock. The site is very interesting and beautiful. It is also regularly used for mass, so it's not all just for show.


Entrance into the salt mine.
The mine starts near the base of the mountain where they extract the salt rock. It is a very popular tourist destination for Colombians and a site that they are extremely proud of so there is a good amount of infrastructure at the entrance of the mine. You are required to take a guide who walks you through the sites and leaves you deep in the mine with the idea that you can walk back through everything at your own pace.

The boys overlooking a large room, which is too dark to see.
Photo opps at one of the Stations of the Cross.
The mine does not go down into the earth, but rather straight into the mountain. The tour starts with the 14 Stations of the Cross. Each is essentially a room that was hollowed out in the course of mining in which a Colombian artist has carved out a large cross, often including benches for praying and platforms for taking photos. Each cross is unique and carved in a different style than the last, and they are lit up with different coloured lights. You can see a few people taking the time to pray at some of them, but most people use them for selfies.

Salty birth of Jesus.
From the altar in the sanctuary, rough-cut walls on either side.
After the Stations of the Cross, you arrive above the sanctuary looking down into it from a balcony. There are some large angel statues carved out of salt as well. While the Stations of the Cross are slightly underwhelming, your first view of the sanctuary really is impressive. There is a huge cross carved out of the wall at the far end of the room, which we were told is the largest of its kind.

Salty Michelangelo replica.
Then you follow stairs down to access the sanctuary, which also has a carved re-creation of Michelangelo’s "The Creation of Adam." On either side of the sanctuary are rooms of equal size with some other statues and tunnels. There is also another smaller wing perpendicular to the sanctuary that has a statue of the Virgin Mary and a series of confessionals carved out of salt. These smaller, more intimate spaces were just as interesting as the larger room.


Taking a break from walking by sitting in a small chapel.
That is essentially all there is to see at the salt cathedral; however, there is much more waiting for you a little further down the mine. This is where things open up into tourist shops, jewelry shops, cafes, “museums,” a 3D mini-movie theatre, light show, and a large reflection pool. It is all a little strange and incredible to have all of this deep underground in the mountain. The 3D theatre was the kids' favourite part of the whole trip, which is not surprising since it was their first time in a “theatre” and a 3D one, at that. The movie was a 30-minute depiction of the history of the area and mine, which is narrated by a salt-rock monster thing who seemingly dies in the end as he returns to being a part of the mine – presumably to be dug up and made into salt in the future. It was wonderful in all its strangeness.

Salt mine Mary nave and Jud.
All in all, I would say that the Zipaquira salt cathedral is very cool and unique. It's not something that would make most people's shortlist when planning a week or two in Colombia, but it makes for a interesting day trip from Bogota.